The summer heat is coming soon and we all want our lawns to be bright green for the summer. Check out The Lawhead Team’s tips for watering your lawn during the summer months.

Don’t sacrifice your lawns this summer due to heat waves. Follow these watering strategies to help your lawn withstand the summer heat:

1. Water before the temperatures peak. It might seem like your lawn needs watering most when the temperature is at its highest, but that’s not really the case. Water attracts the sun, so homeowners who water their lawns when temperatures peak are likely to burn the lawn. Watering is best done when the temperatures are at their coolest, such as in early morning or during the twilight hours in the evening. Watering during these hours also ensures the water won’t evaporate as quickly, allowing the lawn to retain more water, which it will need to make it through a hot summer day.
2. One size does not fit all. A typical landscape has a lawn and likely a handful of trees and shrubs. Homeowners should know that each of these different plants needs different amounts of water. Deep-rooted plants, which includes trees and shrubs, don’t need to be watered as frequently, but homeowners should spend more time watering them when the time comes. Shallow-rooted plants, however, will need to be watered more frequently but for much shorter intervals. Homeowners who aren’t sure just how much time to spend watering the plants around their property should consult a local landscaper or gardening center for advice.
3. Don’t forget to mulch. Mulch is beneficial in many ways, one of which is due to its ability to retain moisture. Because mulch can effectively retain moisture even on hot summer days, this can reduce a homeowner’s need to water, which can be especially valuable if a water restriction has been put into effect. Mulch also prevents weed germination and growth, saving homeowners from the annoying task of removing weeds on hot summer afternoons.
4. Carefully place and time sprinklers. Sprinkler placement is important during the summer months, especially for homeowners who live in areas where water restrictions are common. Strategically locate sprinklers so no water is being wasted on sidewalks and driveways. In addition, if the forecast calls for rain, turn the sprinklers off and let nature do the work for you. Some sprinkler systems even come with a rain sensor that automatically turns the water off when it starts to rain. If less rain falls than the forecasters predicted, you can always water when you arrive home at night.
5. Give problem areas special attention. During the dog days of summer, nearly every lawn will have one or two areas that are suffering more than the rest of the lawn. These areas might be entirely devoid of shade and, as a result, are quicker to succumb to summer heat. Water such areas by hand to ensure they’re getting enough water to help them avoid turning brown or yellow.

Watering your lawn and yard doesn’t have to be as expensive as you think during the hot days of summer. Check out The Lawhead Team’s tips for watering your yard during the dog day’s of summer.

During prolonged, dry conditions garden plants, trees, shrubs and lawns may suffer temporary or permanent damage. Lack of water can lead to stunted growth, increased disease/insect susceptibility and increased susceptibility to winter injury. Plants may eventually die unless supplemental water is provided.

Plants draw moisture from the soil to grow and then release water from stems and leaves via transpiration. Plants begin to wilt and suffer when the transpiration rate exceeds water uptake. Water is also lost by evaporation from the soil surface.

The general rule of thumb is that most plants in our area need 1 inch of water per week. If the weather does not cooperate, gardeners need to supplement by watering. Water plants slowly and deeply at least once each week during very hot, dry weather. This allows water to penetrate deeper which encourages deeper roots making plants more resistant to drought. Lawns and bedding plants (annuals) should be watered to at least 6 inches deep. Perennials, shrubs and trees should be watered to at least 12 inches deep. Try watering in the early morning so less water is lost to evaporation. Overhead sprinklers may lose over half the water to evaporation, so use manual watering, soaker hoses or drip irrigation when possible.

If water is restricted or in short supply you need to prioritize which plants get watered. Determine which plants are most susceptible to water stress. High on your watering list should be plants that are valuable in terms of replacement cost or prominence in the landscape. Newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials; newly seeded lawns; plants on sandy soils or in windy sites and vegetables should be given high priority.

After the first month, newly planted trees need a weekly soaking of approximately 10 gallons of water. Smaller trees and shrubs may require less water, but the entire root ball should be thoroughly moistened. If dry weather continues, keep watering newly planted deciduous trees and shrubs until fall (leaf drop). Continue watering evergreens until the soil freezes.

Even established trees and shrubs will benefit from watering during periods of drought. They can go two to three weeks between watering. Established trees should not be watered at the base of the trunk but at the drip line where their absorbing roots are. Thoroughly moisten the soil to a depth of 12 inches out to and beyond the drip line if possible.

When growing vegetables, adequate water during the growing season is directly related to quality and yields. Depending on the species, vegetables have critical times when they really need water. Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, kohlrabi and cauliflower need consistent moisture during their entire life span, especially during head or root development. Beans use a lot of water; up to a half inch of water per day, especially when they are blooming and setting fruit. Leaves may look grayish if water stressed. Corn needs water most during tasseling, silking and ear development. Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant need water most during flowering and fruiting, however water fluctuations can cause blossom end rot (black area on fruit bottom).

Control weeds around shrubs, vegetables and flowers. Weeds will rob your garden plants of water and nutrients. However, if you hoe or cultivate your garden to control the weeds, continually disturbing the soil can make it dry out faster. Rather than rototilling you may have to cut weeds off at the soil surface or use herbicides until the dry weather subsides.

The best way to protect ornamental plants during dry periods is by using mulch. Mulching minimizes evaporation of water from the soil surface, reducing irrigation needs by about 50 percent. Use organic mulches to a depth of 1 to 3 inches. Keep mulch away from tree trunks and off the top of perennials. Vegetable gardens can also benefit from mulch.

Avoid pruning when plants are stressed and not growing as they are unable to heal wounds quickly. Pruning may stimulate growth which requires more water. Avoid using fertilizers or pesticides. Fertilizers can damage root systems under drought-like conditions and pesticides may burn plant foliage.

If water is not available, allow lawns to go dormant. Avoid light, frequent watering which encourages shallow rooting. Lawn grass will usually begin growing again once conditions improve. Do not mow grass when it is dormant and not growing. Even when growing, set the mower height at 3 inches high. High mowed grass develops deeper root systems that are better able to tolerate dry conditions. Leave grass clippings to act as mulch and recycle nutrients as well as some moisture.

If you do lose some plants this summer consider replacing them with those that are drought tolerant. Using the right plant in the right place will increase your chances for success. Whenever possible, add organic matter to your soil. This will improve the water-holding capacity during dry weather and promote good drainage during wet weather.

During a severe drought, all landscape watering may be prohibited in your town so follow any restrictions. Proper lawn management and use of drought tolerant plants may help your landscape survive dry conditions.

The weather is dry out there and it is tough to keep your lawn looking its best.  The Lawhead Team would like to share some watering tips to keep your lawn looking lush during the heat.

During prolonged, dry conditions garden plants, trees, shrubs and lawns may suffer temporary or permanent damage. Lack of water can lead to stunted growth, increased disease/insect susceptibility and increased susceptibility to winter injury. Plants may eventually die unless supplemental water is provided.

Plants draw moisture from the soil to grow and then release water from stems and leaves via transpiration. Plants begin to wilt and suffer when the transpiration rate exceeds water uptake. Water is also lost by evaporation from the soil surface.

The general rule of thumb is that most plants in our area need 1 inch of water per week. If the weather does not cooperate, gardeners need to supplement by watering. Water plants slowly and deeply at least once each week during very hot, dry weather. This allows water to penetrate deeper which encourages deeper roots making plants more resistant to drought. Lawns and bedding plants (annuals) should be watered to at least 6 inches deep. Perennials, shrubs and trees should be watered to at least 12 inches deep. Try watering in the early morning so less water is lost to evaporation. Overhead sprinklers may lose over half the water to evaporation, so use manual watering, soaker hoses or drip irrigation when possible.

If water is restricted or in short supply you need to prioritize which plants get watered. Determine which plants are most susceptible to water stress. High on your watering list should be plants that are valuable in terms of replacement cost or prominence in the landscape. Newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials; newly seeded lawns; plants on sandy soils or in windy sites and vegetables should be given high priority.

After the first month, newly planted trees need a weekly soaking of approximately 10 gallons of water. Smaller trees and shrubs may require less water, but the entire root ball should be thoroughly moistened. If dry weather continues, keep watering newly planted deciduous trees and shrubs until fall (leaf drop). Continue watering evergreens until the soil freezes.

Even established trees and shrubs will benefit from watering during periods of drought. They can go two to three weeks between watering. Established trees should not be watered at the base of the trunk but at the drip line where their absorbing roots are. Thoroughly moisten the soil to a depth of 12 inches out to and beyond the drip line if possible.

When growing vegetables, adequate water during the growing season is directly related to quality and yields. Depending on the species, vegetables have critical times when they really need water. Brussels sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, kohlrabi and cauliflower need consistent moisture during their entire life span, especially during head or root development. Beans use a lot of water; up to a half inch of water per day, especially when they are blooming and setting fruit. Leaves may look grayish if water stressed. Corn needs water most during tasseling, silking and ear development. Tomatoes, peppers and eggplant need water most during flowering and fruiting, however water fluctuations can cause blossom end rot (black area on fruit bottom).

Control weeds around shrubs, vegetables and flowers. Weeds will rob your garden plants of water and nutrients. However, if you hoe or cultivate your garden to control the weeds, continually disturbing the soil can make it dry out faster. Rather than rototilling you may have to cut weeds off at the soil surface or use herbicides until the dry weather subsides.

The best way to protect ornamental plants during dry periods is by using mulch. Mulching minimizes evaporation of water from the soil surface, reducing irrigation needs by about 50 percent. Use organic mulches to a depth of 1 to 3 inches. Keep mulch away from tree trunks and off the top of perennials. Vegetable gardens can also benefit from mulch.

Avoid pruning when plants are stressed and not growing as they are unable to heal wounds quickly. Pruning may stimulate growth which requires more water. Avoid using fertilizers or pesticides. Fertilizers can damage root systems under drought-like conditions and pesticides may burn plant foliage.

If water is not available, allow lawns to go dormant. Avoid light, frequent watering which encourages shallow rooting. Lawn grass will usually begin growing again once conditions improve. Do not mow grass when it is dormant and not growing. Even when growing, set the mower height at 3 inches high. High mown grass develops deeper root systems that are better able to tolerate dry conditions. Leave grass clippings to act as mulch and recycle nutrients as well as some moisture.

If you do lose some plants this summer consider replacing them with those that are drought tolerant. Using the right plant in the right place will increase your chances for success. Whenever possible, add organic matter to your soil. This will improve the water-holding capacity during dry weather and promote good drainage during wet weather.

During a severe drought, all landscape watering may be prohibited in your town so follow any restrictions. Proper lawn management and use of drought tolerant plants may help your landscape survive dry conditions.

This is the perfect time of the year to get some gardening done. Here are some helpful gardening tips we would like to share with all of our happy homeowners.

It is time to make the necessary preparations to have a healthy, beautiful yard this year.  Success in gardening includes proper soil cultivation and improvement, pest control, pruning and irrigation well before new plant growth emerges. By following the listed procedures faithfully each year, you will be rewarded with an even better lawn and yard than you imagined.

Test the soil — This easy but usually overlooked step will reveal the needs your soil has for improvement. For example, the pH level indicates the acidity or alkalinity of the soil; that will dictate the types of plants that will grow best in a particular location.

Amend and cultivate soil — Heavily compacted soil hinders the health of plants. They prefer well-drained, loamy soil. Add compost to flower, shrub and vegetable beds and turn over or till the soil to break it up. Aerate lawns using equipment designed for that purpose.

Fertilize properly — Lawns, shrubs, trees, flowers and vegetables each have specific requirements. Soil conditions (based on testing) also dictate specific needs.  Fertilizing too little, too frequently or at the wrong time will have a negative result.

Control pests and diseases — Indiscriminant spraying and dusting of pesticides can be harmful to plants, pets and humans. Pesticides are formulated for specific purposes and should be used only as recommended on the product’s label. As a first step, determine what pests or diseases your plants have.

Irrigate — Plants are like people when it comes to water. Too little and they dehydrate; too much and they drown. As a general rule, most plants prefer water at their “feet,” not on their “heads.” So, water at soil level, not by overhead spraying an entire bed. It is important to know when to water. An inexpensive moisture meter can be used to indicate the need. Simply push the prong into the soil to various depths around a plant and read the meter.

Mulch — Covering a soil bed with the proper mulch will retain moisture to benefit plants and maintain better soil conditioning.

Prune selectively — Some plants prefer pruning in early spring, while others can be trimmed during summer or fall. Generally, anything that flowers in the spring should be pruned after flowers die off.

The Lawhead Team wishes happy home improvement and hope these gardening tips help get your home looking its best!

The weather is warming up and summer is coming soon!  Springtime is the best time to do some re-potting of your plants and The Lawhead Team would like to share some helpful tips to get all your house plants looking their best!

Re-potting is an important part of keeping healthy houseplants. The best time of year to re-pot is in spring, before the new flush of summer growth. Here are signs you need to re-pot:

– Roots protruding from the bottom of the pot
– The plant stops growing or becomes limp
– The plant is root bound

1. Water the plant a couple of days before you do any re-potting it so that the soil is moist when you’re ready to work on it.
2. To remove the plant, slip your hand over the top of the pot and hold the plant’s stem, then turn the pot upside down. Tap the pot against a hard surface, then slowly pull the pot away from the plant. After several tries, if the plant still doesn’t come out, use a knife to cut around the edge of the soil. If that doesn’t work, you can break the pot. If you happen to break some of the roots, don’t worry. There are times when a plant’s roots are pruned to keep a plant at a smaller size, so breaking off a few roots in the replanting process won’t hurt anything. In fact, if the plant has become rootbound (roots tightly curling around the sides and bottom of the rootball), it is important to slit through the sides and bottom of the rootball to encourage the roots to branch out into the new soil.
3. Remove about one-third of the soil.
4. Put a few inches of potting soil in the bottom of the new larger pot (no more than about 1 inch larger in circumference than the old pot), put the plant into the pot, and make sure the soil level is high enough so that the soil line on the plant stem isn’t above the top of the pot. The soil line should be about 1″ below the top of the pot. If it’s too low, add more soil below the root ball.
5. Fill in around the root ball with soil, tamping the soil down hard around the edges of the pot with the tips of your fingers or your thumbs. This removes any air pockets that could dry out the roots between waterings.
6. Thalassa Cruso, a plant writer and guru wrote that it’s a good idea to thump the potted plant down hard against a firm surface just to settle the soil and encourage the roots to get busy and grow.
7. Soak the plant until water runs out the bottom and then let it drain completely.

There you go!  Re-potting of your plants is done!